Manali Leh Khardung La expedition
Rewind to 2020 Oct, my colleague Shajee incited to book for Manali to Leh (MLK) cycling expedition arranged by Youth Hostels Association of India (YHAI). I was inclined to take up such a challenge, all needed was persuasion by someone and Shajee did a great job :)
I passed this on to Vivek (who is always enthusiastic to sign up for such a challenge). Together we have been vouching for expedition together and the MLK route was mouthwatering …
Fast forward to May-June 2021, post deadly second Covid wave, was not sure if the expedition would get cancelled. But thankfully the number of cases tapered down at the right time, govt lockdown was lifted and paved way for the ride. Through various meetings with YHAI, understood the preparation to be done (mainly shopping :) ) - what challenges to expect, dos and don'ts .. A week of online search, countless Decathlon trips did the trick; keeping Shajee and Vivek up-to-date indeed helped to know the focus items
Started for Delhi on 8th of July - a pitstop to meet friends in Noida was a must to catch up after a while …
On 9th July, took a HPTDC bus towards Manali. It was a long journey of ~15 hours. The bus had a few YHAI patrons - we got down at 15th Mile stop before Manali.
All of us headed towards the base camp. Subsequently the registration process was completed and the tents were allocated. In no time, we all at Tent 6 gelled together - as if we know each other for years :) The gang was then carried through the entire MLK route. We helped each other and most importantly , shared the snacks. It was great to have Hardikbhai - thanks for his family members for wonderful corn chiwada, shev, bhakari …. Thoroughly enjoyed the delicacies. The other members Girish, Prasad have 'dink [gond / gum] laddoos' and other souvenirs. Narsubhai brought special groundnuts from his farm. Vivek and Aditya had chikkis and chocs as well. I too had some nutritious home-made laddoos and snacks. Now enough of talking about the delicacies but this was indeed the main highlight :).
Girish is an amazing narrator - indeed enjoyed various poems and his trekking expedition stories from the past. It was a great soothing
Now lets have the amazing journey together ... The duration of the expedition was : 10th July to 22nd July 2021.
Note : in the below details, I have pasted a video link - this is *not* from our journey but another group did self-supported ride during our time and am leveraging the recording to help with a gist of the route. It's not available for all the days, but you can search MLK 2.0 in youtube , may be other videos would be added in due course
Photo courtesy : MLK ride folks
Day 1 : Acclimatization
It was a hot and rainy weather. We got the cycles allocated and information about how the routine would be during the expedition.
There was introduction session and most of us were relieved to know most of us are ambitious cyclists with very little experience of riding through such terrain. Of course there were few professional riders in the group as well.
All were eagerly waiting for the test ride on the next day to assess the water and gain some confidence for the uphill climb
Day 2 : The test ride
All of us were ready by 9am to climb towards the Naggar palace. It was ~18km ride. Was drizzling a bit and got a taste of what to expect during next days. The road was scenic and most of us blistering with high energy levels, could complete the uphill non-stop. Some of the hair-pin bends were rather steep but we managed well. Seeing the enthusiasm, got the ride extended to Jana waterfall (there was no sign of waterfall though… ).
After returning back to camp, there was again briefing to emphasize on various aspects like optimum height of the bike seat, how to ride effectively etc. All of us really charged up and looking forward to start the expedition on the next day
Day wise plan:
Here is the route and according elevation to climb
Day 3 : Manali to Marhi
The overnight rain dampened mood in the camp. We were scheduled to start by 7-7:30am but weather god had other ideas. Finally the expedition lead decided to give a go ahead around 9am, the rain had a bit subsided by then. We embarked the journey in the drizzle, which accompanied us throughout till Marhi. Enjoyed beautiful landscapes , roaring Bias river and majestic waterfalls. The ride was ~50km and most of the part was uphill. All of us were literally drenched in water, finally reached Marhi around 4pm. There were icy and strong headwinds towards the end of the journey. After reaching the camp at Marhi, the winds intensified and all of us had a first glimpse of what to expect during the course of the expedition. Everyone struggled to find the bags and suitable clothes. It was combination of tiredness plus cold that was indeed challenging. In no time, all of us were fast asleep , getting prepared for the next day.
Day 4 : Marhi to Sishu
The weather was very pleasant. We started the ride around 8am towards Rohtang-pass. On the way, saw some boulders hindering the heavy traffic. After climbing for an hour or two, we reach Rohtang-pass - 13,000 feet. Thankfully on that day, tourists were not allowed and hence it was rather lonely.
Spent some quality time there, clicking some nice landscapes … There was not much snow around. After having few cups of tea served by YHAI, we continued our downhill to Sishu. The road was mint, had to control to speed to avoid the fall.
After a while, we reached other side of Atal tunnel. Met one gentleman who hailed from Maharashtra and was part of tunnel management team. He too had completed various cycling expeditions in that area and was eager to know about our cycling experience and plan. The Atal tunnel looks majestic - its 9.3km and a boon for the Manali to Sishu connectivity. It cut down travel time by ~4 hours and helps all weather connectivity especially when Rohtang-pass is not motorable during the winter.
Sishu camp was near river Beas and a beautiful heart waterfall
Day 5 : Sishu to Jispa
This was rather smooth ride, with combination of some uphill and downhill. The elevation at the end of the ride was similar to Sishu. Very nice landscapes and beautiful small towns in the Himalayan valley were mesmerizing. Enjoyed the ride with some lush green fields and waterfalls alongside. River Beas and the snow peaks were accompanying us as usual
At Jispa, we had accommodation in the dormitory of the mountaineering institute, alongside of Beas
Day6 : Jispa to Zing Zing Bar
This was another scenic ride. The elevation gain was substantial and also the distance travelled was around 40km. There was a beautiful Deepak lake - reminding us of famous Pangong Tso lake in Ladakh (a smaller version though). The water was crystal clear blue. Passed through military camp. It is astonishing to see these jawans to be there in difficult terrain and be always on their toes to serve the nation. They need extreme physical fitness and strong mind to be in this area - hats off to Indian Army!
The uphill to reach Zing Zing Bar dhaba area was rather tiring (we somehow thought the dhaba is in the valley and hence were not mentally prepared for the steep climb …)
There were few dhabas - they offer food and per night basis beds to the tourists. These operate only during this season - say for ~ June to Sept where this road is in use by the tourists. These are really boon for the travelers as there is no permanent motel in the vicinity - as it would not be economically viable.
We stationed in such a dhaba for a cold night.
MLK 2.0 "The Zinger Day" : Jispa to Zingzingbar : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WGtdRJ9mnuE
Day7 : Zing zing bar to Sarchu
The ride was again a mix of uphill and plains. Now we were coming closer to Ladakh border. We passed through Baralacha La pass of 16000 feet. On the way, crossed another beautiful virgin late : Suraj tal
We were conquering one ice clad mountain after and making the headway towards destination. Cutting across the icy winds was challenging, but thankfully it was a dry spell (unlike Marhi route on day 3). But the road had many streams were had to cross through - also some of them were very bumpy/rocky which we had to carefully navigate (to avoid any damage to the tyre)
Sirchu had many private hotel style tents as well. It was a great valley with some canyon formations
It was our last camp in Himalachal, then we would enter the Ladakh territory
Day8 : Sarchu to Whisky nala
This was one of the toughest day. We crossed over to Ladakh - there was a heavy construction activity ongoing. Roads were muddy and sometimes had to stop for the bulldozers to do their job. Also met BRO (Border Road Organization) jawans and learnt the hardships faced to construct the road in that terrain of loose soil - that leads to lots of land-slides.
We managed to cross over this area but was rather tiring and already bit exhausted - then the majestic (read 'nasty') Gata loops were waiting for us. The following map says it all :). These are 21 hairpin bends and a steep uphill - really needed lot of guts to take this head on. Moreover, regular YHAI supply of water was delayed due to slow moving traffic (BRO work I mentioned earlier). All of us were drained and badly needed water. We requested the pass by vehicles and they happily obliged. This is indeed beauty of such expedition - every traveler selflessly helps other person - truly Indian way of life.
After passing through these loops. It was not over yet. The road to Whisky nala was again another uphill. Lot of us drained and could not reach Whisky nala by 5pm. Then the cold winds started penetrating through the body and thus we had to be swept using a vehicle for last 3-4km to survive the weather.
BTW the name Whisky nala is interesting , isn't it ? Some people say its due to color of water in the area or may be due to feeling of giddiness in this area - as if you had a peg or two of whisky :)
Day 9 : Whisky nala to Pang
This was rather short but scenic ride, passing through Lachungla pass : 16616 feet
After a short uphill, it was through plain grounds to reach Pang
Day 10 : Pang to Debring
There was again a uphill for ~10 kms to reach 'More' plains. This was a vast plateau and ride to Debring was rather routine.
Day 11 : Debring to Rumtse
This was another majestic ride - a challenge to cross worlds second highest pass : Tanglang La
The climb needed lot of determination for a novice like me. But the persuasion indeed helped to conquer it and what a feeling for the accomplishment ! Was rather unbelievable that could achieve the feat. Seems should have packed some more carbohydrates supply or sugar candies for instant energy.
It was cold breeze on the top and then was downhill sailing to Rumtse (braving the headwinds)
This was a good practice to shoot for Khargung La in 2 days
Day 12 : Rumtse to Leh
This was around 75 km ride, mostly even terrain. Now we were getting into Leh and observing the change in the soil patterns, beautiful fruit plantations around. The towns were rather calm and lot of military establishments on the way. Enjoyed the journey towards the Leh base camp where finally we took bath after 10 days :)
We were celebrating as reached the destination but in the mind, the next target was nagging - the mighty Khardug La - highest motorable road in the world
During the evening, we got some important tips on how to plan the journey and the terrain information. 27 of us decided to take this challenge for the next day
Day 13: Leh to Khargung La
We got up at 3am - the plan was to start by 4am but finally flagged off around 4:45am
During the course, the elevation gain to be achieved - 6500 feet : 11500 feet to 18000 feet
To start with, had to navigate through some city roads and few of us got lost for 10-15 mins. Finally got onto the correct route and started the uphill. Soon the sunrise decorated the peaks with golden cover and it was a fabulous view. To continue the ride persistently was the key. It was 40km uphill - first section was till South Pullu measuring 25km. This was comparatively okay but then the rest 15 km was damn steep.
Some of the pro riders could complete the ride in 5:30-6 hours. People like me took 8:30 to 9 hours.
It was test of patience and perseverance. At the end, when reached the peak, it was unbelievable and some of us really broke down to achieve the feat. What an effort for a cyclist … In the terrain where the motorbikes at times fail due to lack of oxygen , we braved through all the odds to reach there.
At top, it was chilly wind and could spend max 15-20 mins to avoid any adverse climate effect. Then started the downhill back to Leh. During return journey, it was unbelievable that we climbed through this tough route all the way! It was just like a dream for all of us.
That concluded the expedition - what a great feeling of accomplishment as a cyclist. Moreover, made so many friends during these 2 weeks - now we feel as if we knew each other for years !
Thanks for reading through ... feedback welcomed ...
More photos : https://photos.app.goo.gl/rc2WtEymQMK5nCyc9
https://photos.app.goo.gl/bq7tMb8PEXHsktCU6
Awesome... Many go for leh trip with motorcycle... You guys are amazing....
ReplyDeleteReally 10 days without bath 😀 that's also something different and memorable...
Of course beauty of Leh ladakh is next to heaven.